Go North young man, go north : Larabanga Stick Mosque and Tamale

Larabang is home to a traditional stick and mud mosque which is thought to be the oldest in West Africa.

The southern part of Ghana is almost 100 proof humid; the corner of the Western Region bordering Côte d’Ivoire is technically considered a tropical rainforest, while the rest of the heavily populated central and coastal regions are categorised as coastal savannah and deciduous forest. In practice, the whole swath from Kumasi down to Accra and […]

Safari in Ghana: Elephants, baboons, and warthogs in Mole National Park

A lone elephant stands by the roadside. On safari in Mole National Park, Ghana

For most people, Africa means safari. Or maybe the political images come first – slavery, war, famine, colonialism and chaos, racism and corruption. That’s one Africa. But then there’s the other Africa, the Africa of white tents, lions, and upper class Europeans in Land Rovers, imagining they’re Lawrence of Arabia. Luxury safari packages mostly skirt […]

Sekondi Fish Market

Early morning at Sekondi's formal fish market

Yesterday morning I dragged myself out of bed at 5.15, snagged a leftover piece of pizza, and trudged down the road to where a cab was waiting. I paid the cab driver 3/4 of my daily allowance (I know, I need to get better at figuring out a cheap way to get to Beach Road. […]